How to Choose an Antique or Vintage Locket
Choosing an antique or vintage locket involves more than finding a design you like. You also need to check whether it closes securely, whether the hinge is sound and whether the inner photo frames or covers are still present.
This guide explains what to look for when buying an older locket, including the photo fittings, measurements, metal, hallmarks, chain opening and signs of previous repairs. It should help whether you want to add a photograph, wear the locket regularly or choose one as a gift.
You can browse the current antique, vintage and preloved lockets while comparing the different styles and fittings explained below.
Table of Contents
- How Will You Use the Locket?
- Antique or Vintage Locket?
- Different Locket Styles
- Photo Compartments and Inner Fittings
- Measurements and Photo Size
- Hinge, Closure and Bail
- Gold, Silver and Other Materials
- Hallmarks and Stamps
- Wear, Repairs and Replaced Parts
- Choosing a Chain
- Questions to Check Before Buying
- Caring for an Older Locket
- FAQs
- You Might Also Like
- Final Thoughts
- About Ps Its Vintage
- References
How Will You Use the Locket?
Start by deciding what you want from the locket. Some are bought mainly for their design, while others need to hold a photograph or small keepsake.
If you want to add a photograph, check the inside before buying. A locket may open but still have missing frames, damaged covers or very little usable space. The outside measurement alone will not tell you what size photograph will fit.
For regular wear, the hinge, catch and bail matter just as much as the appearance. A locket that opens too easily may not be practical for holding something personal.
If you are buying mainly as a collectable piece, you may be more interested in an unusual mechanism, original glass, enamel decoration, engraving, a maker’s mark or a clearly dated hallmark.
Lockets are often chosen because of their personal meaning. You can read more about their links with memory, love and remembrance in the jewellery symbolism guide.
Antique or Vintage Locket?
An antique locket is generally 100 years old or more. A vintage locket is usually at least 20 years old but has not yet reached 100 years old. Preloved simply means that the piece has been owned before, so a preloved locket may be antique, vintage or modern.
The difference matters because age can affect the construction, markings, condition and price. An antique Victorian locket may have hand engraving and older photo fittings, while a later vintage locket may have a simpler machine-made case and a 925 stamp.
You can compare the current antique lockets with the separate vintage lockets collection if you are drawn to a particular period.
When the exact date is not known, the description should explain whether the age is based on a hallmark, date letter, construction or design. An estimated period should not be presented as a confirmed date.
For a fuller explanation, see the difference between antique, vintage and secondhand jewellery.
Different Locket Styles
Lockets come in many shapes and do not all open in the same way. The best style depends on what you want to place inside and how noticeable you want it to be when worn.
Oval lockets
Oval lockets are a traditional choice and often have enough room for a small portrait. They may be plain, engraved, enamelled or decorated on one or both sides.
Heart lockets
Heart-shaped lockets are often chosen as gifts or worn for sentimental reasons. Some hold one photograph, while others open to reveal two small compartments.
Round lockets
Round lockets can have a clean, simple shape or a more decorative front. Check the internal diameter because the usable photograph area may be quite a bit smaller than the outside.
Double-sided glass lockets
A double-sided glass locket allows the contents to be seen from one or both sides. Depending on its depth, it may be suitable for photographs, hairwork, a dried flower or another flat keepsake.
Book and multi-photo lockets
A book locket may open into several frames or folding sections. Make sure the internal pages are present, properly attached and able to move without straining the fittings.
Orb and secret-compartment lockets
Orb lockets and secret-compartment designs can hold several tiny photographs or open in an unusual way. These are worth seeing open and closed before buying because their mechanisms vary.
The photo lockets collection includes traditional oval designs, glass lockets, book lockets, heart-shaped lockets and more unusual forms.
Photo Compartments and Inner Fittings
If you plan to add a photograph, look closely at every image of the open locket. The interior is just as important as the front.
Check whether it has:
- One or two usable photo spaces
- Removable retaining rims or frames
- Glass or clear protective covers
- Bent, loose or incomplete fittings
- Old glue, tape or paper residue
- An existing photograph or keepsake
Many older lockets have lost one or both inner covers. Others have replacements made from later glass or clear plastic. That does not necessarily stop the locket from being used, but it should be shown in the photographs or mentioned in the description.
Do not force a photograph beneath an old frame. The rim may be thin and could bend or break. Make a paper template first and trim it gradually until it sits comfortably inside.
When a locket still contains an old photograph or personal keepsake, decide whether you want to retain it. Removing older material can sometimes damage the backing or inner frame.
Measurements and Photo Size
Close-up jewellery photographs can make a small locket look much larger than it is. Always check the measurements in the written description.
Useful measurements include:
- Height without the bail
- Height including the bail
- Width at the widest point
- Depth when closed
- Internal photo area
- Weight
The internal photo area is usually smaller than the front of the locket because space is taken up by the outer rim, hinge and retaining frame.
If you are choosing a locket for a particular photograph, ask for the usable height and width inside. It is easier to resize the image properly when you know the dimensions before ordering.
Weight can help you judge how the locket may feel on a chain, but it does not prove the metal or construction. A hollow gold locket may be light, while a glass or base-metal locket may feel heavier.
Hinge, Closure and Bail
A locket has working parts, so its condition needs to be judged differently from an ordinary pendant.
The hinge
The hinge should allow the locket to open without pulling the two sides out of line. Look for gaps, looseness, distortion or solder around the hinge.
An older hinge may not feel as tight as a new one, but it should not look ready to separate. A stiff hinge should not be forced because the pressure can split the rim or pull the hinge away from the case.
The closure
The two sides should meet properly and stay closed when the locket is worn. A weak catch may allow the locket to open without being noticed.
If you intend to keep a photograph or another small item inside, a secure closure is more important than a few light surface marks.
The bail and jump ring
The bail is the fitting that connects the locket to a chain. This area can become thin after years of rubbing.
Check for splits, stretching, thinning and previous solder repairs. A repaired bail may still be perfectly wearable, but the repair should be sound.
You also need to know the size of the opening. The chain may be narrow enough to fit through while its clasp or end ring is too large.
Gold, Silver and Other Materials
Antique and vintage lockets can be made from solid gold, sterling silver, rolled gold, gold filled metal, gold plate, gold back and front, base metal or a mixture of materials.
These descriptions do not mean the same thing.
A solid gold locket is made from a gold alloy through the main metal body rather than having a layer of gold over another metal. It may still be hollow. A sterling silver locket is made from silver through the main metal body, although it may also contain glass, frames, photographs or other non-silver parts.
Rolled gold and gold filled metal have a layer of gold bonded to another metal. Gold plating is usually a thinner surface coating and may wear around raised decoration, rims and other areas that rub against skin or clothing.
For a fuller comparison, read Solid Gold vs Gold Filled, Rolled Gold and Gold Plated Jewellery.
Gold back and front is an older description commonly found on lockets. It usually means the visible front and back panels are gold, while the frame, hinge or inner parts may be another metal. It should not be treated as solid gold throughout.
This construction is explained separately in Gold Back and Front Lockets Explained.
You can also compare the current gold lockets and sterling silver lockets collections.
Hallmarks and Stamps
A UK hallmark can help identify the metal, fineness and assay office. Some hallmarks also include a date letter.
A complete modern UK hallmark normally includes:
- A sponsor’s or maker’s mark
- A metal and fineness mark, such as 375 for 9ct gold or 925 for sterling silver
- An assay office mark
A date letter may be present, but it is not compulsory on modern UK hallmarks. When there is one, it needs to be read alongside the assay office symbol and the shape surrounding the letter.
Marks such as 9CT, SILVER, 925, GOLD BACK & FRONT or 9CT B&F can still be useful, but a simple stamp is not the same as a complete UK hallmark.
Some genuine antique or vintage lockets have partial, worn or missing marks. This can be due to age, repair, alteration, import history or the rules that applied when the item was made and sold.
When a full hallmark is not present, look for clear testing information rather than relying on colour alone. The guides on how to read jewellery hallmarks and why some gold jewellery has no hallmark explain this in more detail.
Wear, Repairs and Replaced Parts
An older locket does not have to be completely free from wear. Light scratches, softened engraving and small surface marks are common on jewellery that has been worn and handled over many years.
The more important question is whether the wear affects the strength or use of the locket.
Look for:
- Dents in hollow front or back panels
- Splits around the rim
- A loose or distorted hinge
- A catch that no longer holds
- Thinning around the bail
- Missing or chipped glass
- Loose photo frames
- Loss to enamel or decorative inlay
- Base metal showing through worn plating
- Visible solder or repaired sections
A good repair is not automatically a reason to avoid a locket. Older jewellery has often been repaired so it can continue to be worn. The repair should be secure and disclosed where it is visible or known.
Be careful with claims that every part is original. A locket may have had its glass, inner frame, bail or chain replaced at some point. Unless there is evidence, it is better to describe a part as present or replaced rather than assume it is original.
Choosing a Chain
Some lockets are sold with a chain, while others are sold on their own. A chain included with an antique locket is not necessarily the chain it was originally worn with.
If you plan to use your own chain, check:
- The internal opening of the locket bail
- The width of the chain
- The size of the clasp and end ring
- The weight of the locket
- The condition of the bail
- Where the locket will sit at the chosen chain length
A delicate chain may suit a small, light locket, but a larger or heavier piece needs enough support. The chain should not pull against a thin or worn bail.
If you are pairing a gold locket with another chain, the vintage gold chains and necklaces collection gives you different lengths and link styles to compare. Check the clasp measurement before assuming it will pass through the bail.
Questions to Check Before Buying
A useful online listing should show the front, back, interior, hinge, side profile, bail and any visible marks.
Before buying, check whether the description answers these questions:
- What is the locket made from?
- Is the metal hallmarked, stamped or tested?
- Does the hinge move properly?
- Does the catch hold the locket closed?
- Are the photo frames and covers present?
- What is the usable photograph size?
- Are there dents, splits or repairs?
- Have any fittings been replaced?
- Do the measurements include the bail?
- Is the chain included?
- Will the chain clasp pass through the bail?
Clear information is more useful than a broad claim that a locket is rare or completely original. When something cannot be confirmed, the description should say so rather than fill in the gaps.
Caring for an Older Locket
Do not soak an antique or vintage locket. Water and cleaning liquid can enter through the hinge or rim and damage photographs, paper, glue, hairwork or older inner fittings.
For general care:
- Wipe the outside with a soft, dry cloth
- Keep perfume, hairspray and lotions away from it
- Remove it before showering, swimming or exercising
- Do not place it in an ultrasonic cleaner
- Store it closed in a dry, soft-lined compartment
- Keep it away from harder jewellery that may scratch it
- Do not force a stiff hinge or catch
Take particular care with enamel, glass, pearls, turquoise, coral, hairwork and painted details. These may need a different cleaning method from the metal surrounding them.
Heavy polishing can soften old engraving and remove more metal than expected. Begin with the gentlest method and seek advice from a jeweller when a locket is fragile, valuable or made from several materials.
For wider care advice, see How to Care for Vintage and Secondhand Jewellery Naturally.
FAQs
Check the height, width and depth rather than judging the size from close-up photographs. Also check whether the height includes the bail. If you want to add a photograph, ask for the usable internal measurements.
Usually, provided the locket has a usable compartment and suitable inner fittings. Make a paper template first and trim the photograph gradually so you do not bend the retaining frame.
No. Some have complete hallmarks, while others have simple stamps, partial marks or no readable marks. When a hallmark is absent, look for testing information and a clear explanation of how the metal was identified.
It usually means the front and back outer panels are gold, while the hinge, frame or internal structure may be another metal. It does not usually mean the whole locket is solid gold.
Not always. Many lockets have been paired with different chains during their lifetime. A chain should not be described as original unless there is evidence to support that claim.
That depends on its condition. A locket with a secure hinge, catch and bail may be suitable for regular wear. Delicate glass, enamel, gemstones, thinning metal or older repairs may mean it needs to be worn more carefully.
Check whether the retaining frames, glass or clear covers are present. Look for bent rims, glue, tape, missing parts and enough usable space for the photograph you want to add.
You Might Also Like
- Gold Back and Front Lockets Explained
- Solid Gold vs Gold Filled, Rolled Gold and Gold Plated Jewellery
- How to Read Hallmarks in Vintage and Secondhand Jewellery
- Why Some Gold Jewellery Has No Hallmark
- Jewellery Symbolism Guide
- Browse Antique, Vintage and Preloved Lockets
Final Thoughts
A good locket should suit what you want to do with it. If you plan to add a photograph, the inside and its fittings are important. If you plan to wear it often, pay close attention to the hinge, catch, bail and chain opening.
Check the measurements, material, hallmarks, repairs and condition rather than relying on the front view alone. An older locket does not need to look new, but you should be able to understand what is present, what is missing and how securely it can be worn.
You can browse the current antique, vintage and preloved lockets collection, with materials, measurements, marks and condition details included where available.
Please note: This guide is provided for general information only. Every effort is made to check the information against recognised sources, but jewellery can vary and identification from photographs or written descriptions is not conclusive. Important decisions about authenticity, value, condition, repairs or care should be confirmed by an appropriately qualified professional who can examine the piece in person.
About Ps Its Vintage
Ps Its Vintage is independently run and specialises in preloved, vintage and antique jewellery. I sell lockets, rings, chains, brooches, bracelets, earrings, charms and small collectable pieces, with new pieces added as I find them.
Each item is described with the available information about its materials, hallmarks, measurements, age and condition, so you can see what you are buying before it arrives.
More about the business can be found on the About Ps Its Vintage page.
References
- GOV.UK: Hallmarking Practical Guidance Summary
- Birmingham Assay Office: Understanding Hallmarks and Your Jewellery
