How to Read Hallmarks in Vintage and Secondhand Jewellery

Hallmarks are small, stamped symbols that carry a lot of meaning. For anyone interested in vintage or secondhand jewellery, learning to read these marks can offer insight into a piece’s age, origin, and authenticity. Whether you’re exploring antique fairs, shopping online, or sorting through a family collection, hallmarking is one of the most reliable ways to understand the true value of a piece.

In the UK and Ireland, hallmarking has been part of the jewellery‑making tradition for centuries. These marks are legally required for most precious metal items and help to confirm exactly what a piece is made from. Once you understand how they work, hallmarks become an easy tool to help you buy secondhand jewellery with more confidence.

What Is a Hallmark and Why Is It Important?

A hallmark is a legally recognised stamp applied to items made from precious metals such as gold, silver, platinum or palladium. It confirms that the metal has been independently tested and meets specific legal standards of purity. In the UK, hallmarking has been legally required since the 14th century, making it one of the longest‑running consumer protection laws in existence. You can read more at the London Assay Office’s “What is a Hallmark?” page.

Hallmarks aren’t decorative stamps—they’re applied by official assay offices that test each item. If a piece is described as a certain metal, the hallmark is your proof.

For vintage and secondhand buyers, hallmarks help distinguish genuine period pieces from modern replicas or plated knock‑offs.

Why Hallmarks Matter in Vintage and Secondhand Jewellery

When shopping for pre‑owned jewellery online or in person, you often rely on a photograph or a brief description. Hallmarks offer objective evidence about:

• Metal content – sterling silver, 9ct gold or other alloys
• Purity level – what percentage of the metal is pure
• Year of hallmarking – date letters can pinpoint an exact year
• Assay location – which office tested and stamped the piece
• Maker or sponsor – who submitted the item for hallmarking

🡒 Browse jewellery with visible hallmarks at Ps Its Vintage

What Is a Full UK Hallmark?

A full UK hallmark typically includes up to four components:

1. Sponsor’s mark – initials inside a shield identifying the maker or sponsor
2. Fineness mark – three‑digit purity in parts per thousand
3. Assay office mark – symbol of the office that tested the metal
4. Date letter – a letter indicating the year of hallmarking

You’ll often find these tiny stamps inside rings, behind clasps, or on the back of brooches. Using a loupe or magnifying glass is often necessary.

Understanding Metal Purity Marks (Fineness Marks)

Fineness marks tell you the metal’s purity. Here are common UK marks:

The shape around each number also helps identify the metal family:

• Oval = gold
• Rectangle with clipped corners = silver
• House‑shaped = platinum
• Circle = palladium

The Goldsmiths’ Company Assay Office outlines how these marks work in detail.

What Are Date Letters and How Do They Work?

Date letters are one of the most helpful features for dating vintage pieces. Each assay office uses its own cycle of letters, fonts, and shield shapes.

Important points:

• London began in 1478. Before 1975, the date changed on 19 May; since then it changes on 1 January.
• Birmingham started in 1773, changing on 1 July until 1975, then switched to 1 January.
• Edinburgh and Sheffield also use similar but unique cycles.
• Certain letters (like I, J, O, Q) are often skipped.
• The same letter may reappear after many years, but differences in shape and font help identify the exact year.

BullionByPost provides a comprehensive breakdown of hallmark date letters since 1900.

Readers often check these date charts to distinguish whether a piece was made in, say, 1912 or 1962—even if both use the same letter.

Assay Office Marks in the UK and Ireland

Assay offices are responsible for testing and hallmarking precious metals. Each office uses a unique symbol:

Knowing which office stamped the piece provides insight into local styles or manufacturing norms of the time.

More on Edinburgh’s longstanding tradition here and the Dublin Assay Office history here.

What If There's No Hallmark?

Some vintage or antique jewellery won’t have a hallmark. This doesn’t mean it’s fake, but it does mean you need extra due diligence.

Reasons for missing hallmarks:

• Made before hallmarking laws were in effect
• Manufactured outside the UK or Ireland and never imported through a local assay office
• Weighs below the legal limit for hallmarking (e.g. under 1g gold or 7.78g silver)
• Crafted by an independent artisan without using an assay office
• The hallmark has worn away due to polishing or long-term wear

In these cases, professional analysis methods like XRF testing or acid testing can verify metal type.

Final Thoughts

Hallmarks offer a fascinating glimpse into the past and remain one of the most reliable ways to identify vintage and secondhand jewellery. Once you know what to look for, each tiny stamp reveals the story of where, when and how your piece was made.

🡒 Explore vintage rings with visible hallmarks

You Might Also Like:

• Why Buying Secondhand Jewellery Is the Most Sustainable Choice
• How to Care for Vintage and Secondhand Jewellery Naturally

References

1. The Goldsmiths’ Company Assay Office – What is a Hallmark?
2. BullionByPost – Hallmark Date Letters
3. Wikipedia – Dublin Assay Office
4. Wikipedia – Edinburgh Assay Office
5. Wikipedia – Hallmark