July Birthstone Jewellery: Ruby Guide

Ruby is July’s birthstone and one of the most recognisable coloured gems in jewellery. From warm antique clusters to crisp Art Deco lines and bold mid century rings, ruby adds instant presence to a piece. This guide looks at history, symbolism, colour, treatments, vintage styling and what to know when you are buying ruby jewellery secondhand.

For a month by month overview, you can visit the Birthstones by Month guide. If you enjoy the meaning behind motifs, the Jewellery Symbolism Guide is a nice companion read.

Table of Contents

• History of July’s Birthstone
• Symbolism and Colour
• Ruby at a Glance
• Varieties, Treatments and What to Expect
• Ruby in Vintage and Antique Jewellery
• Natural, Synthetic and Imitation Rubies
• Care in Brief
• FAQs
• You Might Also Like
• Final Thoughts
• About Ps Its Vintage
• References

History of July’s Birthstone

Ruby has a long history as a symbol of status and protection. In ancient India it was described as the “king of precious stones”, valued for its rarity, hardness and vivid colour. Rubies appear in royal collections and ceremonial jewellery across many cultures, often alongside diamonds, emeralds and sapphires.

Historically, fine rubies from regions such as Myanmar (Burma) were especially prized for their rich red colour. Over time, rubies from other sources, including Sri Lanka and parts of Africa, entered the market. In vintage and antique jewellery you will see rubies used in everything from delicate Victorian rings to bold mid century cluster designs.

Symbolism and Colour

Symbolism. Ruby is often linked with love, courage and vitality. In some traditions it was thought to protect the wearer, bring strength in battle and guard against misfortune. Today many people choose rubies to mark romantic milestones, July birthdays and anniversaries because of their association with warmth and commitment.

Colour. Ruby is the red variety of corundum. The finest stones show a strong, lively red that can lean slightly purplish. Stones with too much brown, orange or very dark tone can look less bright. At the other end of the scale, gems that appear more pink than red may be described differently depending on local practice and laboratory wording. In everyday buying, it helps to look for a pleasing red that still feels bright and readable in normal light rather than chasing specific trade names.

Ruby at a Glance

What it is. Ruby is the red variety of the mineral corundum. Other colours of corundum are classed as sapphire.

Colour cause. Ruby’s red comes mainly from traces of chromium in the crystal structure.

Hardness. Rubies sit around 9 on the Mohs scale, just below diamond, and have no cleavage. This makes them one of the more durable coloured stones for jewellery.

Typical use. Ruby works well in rings, pendants, earrings and bracelets. It is widely used in cluster rings, three stone rings and as calibré cut accents in Art Deco style pieces.

Birthstone and anniversaries. Ruby is the modern birthstone for July and is also associated with certain wedding anniversaries, including the 40th.

Everyday wear. A well set ruby can be a good choice for everyday wear, including in engagement style rings, as long as you avoid hard knocks and keep an eye on settings. For sizing help you can use the Ring Size Calculator.

Varieties, Treatments and What to Expect

Ruby sources. Rubies are mined in several regions, including Myanmar, Thailand, Sri Lanka, Mozambique and other parts of Africa and Asia. Each source can have its own typical look, but colour, cut and overall appearance matter more than the name on a label unless a report clearly supports a specific origin. In many vintage and antique pieces, precise origin is not known and is not essential for enjoying the jewellery.

Heat treatment. Heat treatment to improve colour and clarity is common in rubies and has been used for many years. When carried out in a standard way, it is generally accepted in the trade and should be disclosed.

Fracture and flux-related treatments. Some rubies are heated with flux to help soften the look of fissures or fill small surface reaching features. More heavily treated stones can contain significant amounts of glass in fractures and cavities. These can still be attractive but may be less durable and usually sit in a different price bracket. They should always be clearly described so you can care for them correctly and compare like with like.

What to look for in secondhand ruby jewellery. When buying a preloved ruby piece, pay attention to how the colour looks in normal daylight, whether the stone appears bright and lively from arm’s length and how secure the setting feels. If treatment type or whether the stone is natural, synthetic or composite is important for your decision, it is reasonable to ask the seller what is known and whether any testing or reports are available.

Ruby in Vintage and Antique Jewellery

Ruby appears in many jewellery eras, often paired with diamonds, pearls or other coloured stones.

Victorian. Warm yellow gold, engraved shoulders and cluster or navette rings are common. Rubies often appear with old cut diamonds in sentimental pieces, brooches and half hoops. Seed pearls and ruby accents are also seen in some designs.

Edwardian and early twentieth century. Light, lace like settings in platinum or white gold combine rubies with old cut and single cut diamonds. You may see calibré cut rubies used as borders around central diamonds or in delicate line bracelets and pendants.

Art Deco. Strong geometry and contrast define this period. Rubies are often cut into small calibré stones to form crisp borders and stepped patterns around diamonds, onyx or rock crystal. Ring profiles can be lower yet still very eye catching.

Mid century and later. Bold cluster rings, statement cocktail rings and classic three stone designs are common. Rubies in yellow gold settings, sometimes with diamonds on the shoulders, feel very typical of the mid twentieth century. Later pieces include simpler solitaire rubies and contemporary takes on vintage styles.

When you look at a vintage or antique ruby piece, it can help to consider both the era of the mounting and the likely age of the stone. Settings can be reused and stones may have been replaced over time, so age of the metal and age of the gem are not always the same story.

Natural, Synthetic and Imitation Rubies

Natural rubies. Many antique and vintage pieces do contain natural rubies, but it is not safe to assume that every red stone you see is natural by default. Natural rubies can show inclusions, colour zoning and other internal features which help gemmologists confirm what they are.

Synthetic rubies. Synthetic rubies, grown in a laboratory rather than formed in the earth, have been available since the late nineteenth and early twentieth century. Flame fusion, often called the Verneuil process, and other growth methods made synthetic rubies widely accessible. They appear in some early twentieth century and mid century jewellery, sometimes clearly described, sometimes not.

Composites and heavily filled stones. Some modern low grade rubies are so heavily filled with glass that they are better described as composite stones made of ruby and glass together. These can look visually clear but are more vulnerable to heat, chemicals and knocks. They should be priced and described accordingly.

Imitation rubies. Red spinel, garnet, glass and other materials have all been used to imitate ruby. Some older pieces described historically as ruby are now known to contain other red stones. These imitations can still be collectable or sentimental, but they sit in a different category and value band.

Practical note. By eye alone it is often difficult to be completely certain whether a stone is a natural ruby, a synthetic ruby, a composite or another red gem. Good lab work and clear descriptions make the difference. For important purchases, especially at higher price points, a gemmological report from a recognised laboratory is well worth considering.

Care in Brief

Rubies are generally robust, but treatment type and overall condition influence how you should look after a piece.

Cleaning natural or simply heated rubies. For most natural or standard heated rubies, lukewarm water with a little mild soap and a soft brush is enough. Rinse well and dry with a lint free cloth. Avoid harsh chemicals and store pieces separately so metal and other stones do not rub against the ruby’s surface.

Heavily fracture filled or composite rubies. Rubies that contain significant amounts of glass in fractures or cavities can be more sensitive. Heat, strong cleaning fluids and even mild acids such as lemon juice or vinegar may damage fillings. Ultrasonic and steam cleaning are usually best avoided for these stones. If you are unsure which type of ruby you have, clean by hand in lukewarm water and mild soap only.

Settings and age. As with all vintage and antique jewellery, it is a good idea to check claws, bezels and links from time to time and have them tightened or repaired when needed. A quick check with a soft cloth now and then can help you spot any movement in a stone before it becomes a problem.

FAQs

What does ruby symbolise?

Ruby is most often associated with love, passion, courage and vitality. Historically it was also seen as a stone of protection and strength, worn by rulers and warriors who wanted to carry that symbolism with them.

Are all rubies treated?

No. Some rubies are unheated, some are traditionally heat treated and others are more heavily treated or filled. Heat treatment is common and generally accepted when disclosed. Heavily glass filled or composite rubies sit in a different category and should be described clearly so you know what you are buying and how to care for it.

How can I tell if a ruby is real?

It is difficult to be certain by eye alone. Basic checks, such as looking at the stone under magnification, can hint at whether it is glass, another red gem or a synthetic. To know whether a stone is a natural ruby, a synthetic ruby or another material, you normally need proper testing by a gemmologist and, for important pieces, a laboratory report.

Is ruby a good choice for an engagement ring?

Yes, ruby can be a good choice for engagement style rings. It is hard and tough enough for regular wear, provided the setting is secure and you avoid heavy impact. As with any coloured stone, think about lifestyle and routine. Some people like to have a ruby ring for daily wear and a simpler band for very hands on tasks.

Why do some rubies look more pink or purple?

Small differences in trace elements and how the stone formed affect the exact shade. Some rubies lean slightly purplish red, others closer to pure red and some towards pink or orangey red. Different countries and laboratories also use slightly different rules when deciding whether to label a stone as ruby or pink sapphire.

What should I watch out for when buying ruby jewellery secondhand?

Focus on how the piece looks and feels. Check colour, brightness and condition, and look at the metal for hallmarks and signs of wear. Read descriptions carefully for details on whether the ruby is natural, synthetic or described as tested. If treatment type and origin matter to you, ask what is known and consider a report for higher value purchases.

You Might Also Like

• Birthstones by Month: Complete Guide
• May Birthstone Jewellery: Essential Emerald Guide
• June Birthstone Jewellery: Pearls, Alexandrite and Moonstone
• How to Tell if Vintage Jewellery Is Real: A Simple Guide
• Jewellery Symbolism Guide: Meaning Behind Popular Motifs

Final Thoughts

Ruby gives July a strong, confident birthstone. Whether you are drawn to soft antique clusters, clean Art Deco lines or mid century statement rings, there is usually a way to bring red into your jewellery box that suits both style and everyday life. When you balance colour, condition, treatment and how you plan to wear the piece, choosing becomes much easier.

If you would like to explore ruby pieces, a good starting point is the Rings collection or keeping an eye on New Arrivals for ruby jewellery as it appears.

About Ps Its Vintage

Ps Its Vintage is independently run and specialises in preloved, vintage and antique jewellery. Every piece is chosen for its character, quality and symbolism, with a focus on hallmarks, makers and meaningful design. Whether you are exploring July’s ruby birthstone or searching for a piece to mark a milestone, this guide is here to help you choose with confidence.

References

• GIA - July birthstones: ruby overview
• GIA - Ruby: overview and quality factors
• GIA - Ruby care and cleaning guide
• GIA - An introduction to synthetic gem materials
• International Gem Society - July birthstone: ruby meaning and history
• Gem-A - Articles and education on ruby, treatments and identification
• International Gem Society - Ruby gemstone value and care insights