December Birthstone Jewellery: Turquoise, Tanzanite & Zircon
December Birthstone Jewellery: Turquoise, Tanzanite & Zircon
December has a trio of birthstones with a shared love of blue: the timeless glow of turquoise, the vivid blue-violet of tanzanite, and the bright fire of zircon. This guide explores their colour, symbolism and stories through history, with clear, practical notes so you can choose pieces you’ll enjoy wearing.
Table of Contents
- History of December Birthstones
- Symbolism & Colour
- Turquoise: At a Glance
- Tanzanite: At a Glance
- Zircon: At a Glance
- Design Through the Eras
- Famous & Notable
- Care in Brief
- FAQs
- You Might Also Like
- Final Thoughts
- About Ps Its Vintage
- References
History of December Birthstones
Turquoise has been treasured for millennia from Egypt and the Sinai to Persia and Central Asia. Historic “Persian blue” became a colour ideal rather than a single-source guarantee, and the stone travelled widely along trade routes. In Europe it appears in Georgian and Victorian jewels, often with seed pearls and sentimental motifs. It is also central to Native American craft in engraved silver, which many collectors love today.
Zircon is a natural gemstone used in Victorian and Art Deco jewellery under older names such as hyacinth or jacinth for warm tones. Its appeal is high brilliance and lively “fire”. Blue zircon became popular in the early twentieth century after heat treatment revealed the cool winter shades people now associate with December.
Tanzanite is a modern star. Discovered in 1967 in Tanzania’s Merelani Hills, it was named and promoted by Tiffany & Co., who helped introduce its blue-violet glow to a global audience. Its single locality adds to the romance. Pleochroism gives different colours from different angles, making well-oriented stones especially vibrant.
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Symbolism & Colour
Turquoise. Traditionally a protective talisman and a symbol of friendship and good fortune. Colour runs from robin’s-egg blue to teal and green; many stones show attractive “matrix” patterns. Warm gold highlights blue tones, while engraved silver emphasises its heritage feel.
Tanzanite. Often chosen to mark new chapters. Its blue-violet pleochroism feels dynamic and elegant, especially in pendants and dress rings.
Zircon. Associated with clarity and balance. Natural zircon shows strong brilliance and dispersion, so blue zircon sparkles brightly in evening light.
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Turquoise: At a Glance
Mineral: copper aluminium phosphate. Colour: blue to green, with or without matrix. Hardness: about 5–6 (softer, porous). Notes: commonly stabilised or waxed to improve durability and polish. Natural, untreated turquoise exists and is collectable; both should be described clearly.
Varieties & trade terms: “Persian/Nishapur blue” as a classic colour ideal; “Sleeping Beauty” and “Kingman” often used as mine names in trade; “spiderweb” describes matrix patterning. Be aware of dyed howlite or magnesite used as turquoise look-alikes, and reconstituted/composite material made from small fragments.
Wearability & styling: best for pendants, earrings, brooches and protected rings. Victorian forget-me-nots, Edwardian cabochons with diamonds, Western-inspired silver, and mid-century bombé clusters all suit turquoise beautifully.
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Tanzanite: At a Glance
Mineral: zoisite variety. Colour: violetish-blue to bluish-violet, usually heat-treated to remove brownish tones; strongly pleochroic. Hardness: ~6–7 with one direction of perfect cleavage. Notes: striking in evening light; better for pendants and earrings or rings with protective settings if you wear jewellery daily.
Cut & orientation: cutters balance saturation and pleochroism. You’ll see ovals, cushions and emerald cuts that show blue to violet depending on lighting. Seller terms like “AA/AAA” are not universal standards; assess colour, clarity and cut with your eye.
Locality: Merelani Hills, Tanzania. A single source adds to its story and collectability.
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Zircon: At a Glance
Mineral: zircon (ZrSiO4). Colour: many colours; blue is most popular for December and is typically heat-treated from brownish material. Hardness: roughly 6–7½ depending on type. Optics: very high refractive index and strong dispersion give lively brilliance and “fire”; doubled facets may be visible under magnification due to birefringence.
Not cubic zirconia: zircon is a natural gemstone. Cubic zirconia is a different, lab-made material. Vintage pieces often feature blue zircon as a bright centre for rings and pendants.
Types: gemmology sometimes distinguishes high, intermediate, low zircon depending on crystal damage and heat history; jewellers focus on how bright, clean and well-cut the stone looks in wear.
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Design Through the Eras
Victorian. Turquoise forget-me-nots and acrostic messages, seed pearl accents, memorial pieces; zircon in warm tones appears in late Victorian jewels.
Edwardian. Fine platinum and millegrain. Turquoise cabochons alongside old-cut diamonds for delicate contrast; blue zircon with airy filigree.
Art Deco. Crisp geometry and stepped shoulders. Blue zircon brings brilliant fire to linear designs; turquoise appears in sleek, stylised motifs.
Mid-century to late 20th century. Tanzanite rises after 1967, seen in bold cocktail rings and elegant pendants. Blue zircon remains popular for its vivid sparkle in white metals.
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Famous & Notable
- Persian blue turquoise as a historic colour ideal, echoed in mine-name lore and collector taste.
- Tanzanite, Merelani Hills. A single-locality story discovered in 1967 and popularised worldwide soon after.
- Blue zircon’s fire made it a favourite in Edwardian and Deco rings where sparkle and clean geometry meet.
Care in Brief
Turquoise: avoid chemicals, perfumes and very dry heat; it is porous and can absorb oils. Clean gently with lukewarm water, mild soap and a soft brush, then pat dry. Avoid ultrasonic and steam. Store separately in a soft pouch.
Tanzanite: avoid knocks and sudden temperature changes because it has perfect cleavage. Use lukewarm water and mild soap only; no ultrasonic or steam. Choose protective ring settings if you wear jewellery daily.
Zircon: bright but brittle and heat-sensitive. Clean with mild soap and water; avoid ultrasonic and steam. Store to prevent contact scratches; light professional repolish can refresh worn facets on vintage pieces.
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FAQs
Are December’s birthstones always blue?
Turquoise ranges blue to green, tanzanite shows blue to violet, and zircon appears in many colours. Blue zircon is the most popular December choice.
Is blue zircon the same as cubic zirconia?
No. Zircon is a natural gemstone with high brilliance and strong dispersion. Cubic zirconia is a different, lab-made material.
Is stabilised turquoise real?
Yes. Stabilisation supports durability and polish. Natural, untreated turquoise also exists; both should be described clearly in listings.
Why does my turquoise look greener over time?
Porous stones can pick up skin oils or cosmetics. Gentle cleaning helps, but prevention is best: put jewellery on after skincare and store pieces separately.
Why does tanzanite look different in various lights?
Pleochroism. Cut orientation and lighting can shift the balance between blue and violet, which many people enjoy as part of its character.
Can I wear tanzanite every day?
With care. It is best in pendants and earrings or rings with protective settings if you wear jewellery daily.
Why are some zircons “dull” and others very lively?
Cut quality, clarity and the stone’s type affect performance. Well-cut high or intermediate zircon shows strong sparkle; worn facets can be professionally refreshed.
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You Might Also Like
- Birthstones by Month: Complete Guide
- September Birthstone Jewellery: Sapphire Guide
- October Birthstone Jewellery: Opal & Tourmaline Guide
- Jewellery Symbolism Guide
- Ring Size Calculator & International Chart
Final Thoughts
Whether you love the calming blue of turquoise, the vivid glow of tanzanite or the bright flashes of zircon, December’s birthstones offer colour and character for every style. Explore pieces from different eras and choose the tone that feels most like you.
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About Ps Its Vintage
Ps Its Vintage is independently run and specialises in preloved, vintage and antique jewellery. Every piece is chosen for its character, quality and symbolism, with a focus on hallmarks, makers and meaningful design. Whether you’re discovering a birthstone or marking a milestone, this guide is here to help you choose with confidence.
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References
- GIA — December Birthstones overview
- GIA — Turquoise (properties, treatments)
- GIA — Tanzanite (history, pleochroism)
- GIA — Zircon (optics, colour range)
- IGS — Hardness & Wearability
