How to Tell if Vintage Jewellery Is Real – A Simple Guide
Not sure if that ring you found is truly vintage? You’re not alone. With so many reproductions and vintage-style pieces on the market, it can be hard to tell what’s genuinely old and what just looks the part. In this guide, I’ll walk you through some simple ways to identify real vintage jewellery, whether you’re buying online or sorting through your own collection.
Vintage jewellery carries charm, history and individuality, but knowing how to spot the real thing is key. From hallmarks to materials and craftsmanship, here’s how to tell if a piece is genuinely vintage.
1. Look for Hallmarks or Stamps
One of the easiest ways to assess authenticity is by checking for hallmarks. These small marks, often found inside rings or on the clasp of a chain, can tell you:
- The metal purity (e.g. 925 for sterling silver, 375 for 9ct gold)
- The country of origin
- The date letter (especially useful for UK jewellery)
- The maker's mark or sponsor's initials
You can compare British hallmarks using the official Assay Office hallmark guide1. Most vintage jewellery made in the UK is hallmarked by offices in London, Birmingham, Sheffield or Edinburgh.
2. Study the Craftsmanship
Genuine vintage and antique pieces often show detailed craftsmanship that’s rare in modern fast-made jewellery. Look for:
- Hand-engraved detailing
- Open-back settings (especially on older gemstone pieces)
- Slight asymmetries that indicate hand-assembly
- Secure old-style clasps, such as box clasps or C-clasps
If you notice casting seams, machine-cut uniformity or very bright “new” finishes, it may be a reproduction.
3. Consider the Materials Used
Real vintage jewellery will often use:
- Natural gemstones (sometimes slightly included, not flawless)
- Pearl settings that are glued or grain-set rather than drilled
- Enamelling that shows age or slight wear
- Gold in 9ct, 14ct or 18ct, or solid sterling silver (not plated)
The Gemological Institute of America (GIA)2 offers helpful information about natural gemstones, treatments and typical signs of wear.
4. Trust the Signs of Wear
Genuine vintage jewellery has lived a life. That’s part of its beauty. Look for:
- Patina on silver or gold
- Natural wear on the band or edges of a ring
- Aged gemstone settings or slightly softened facets
- Minor surface scratches that indicate real use, not factory wear
Condition is important, but small signs of wear are often what make a vintage piece feel real and authentic.
5. What’s the Difference Between Vintage and Vintage-Inspired?
This is a common point of confusion. Vintage jewellery is typically at least 20 years old, often made using traditional techniques and materials. Vintage-inspired jewellery is modern but designed to mimic older styles.
To tell them apart:
- Look for modern laser engraving, which rarely appears on vintage pieces
- Check if the patina or “ageing” looks artificial
- Confirm the piece isn’t part of a current retail collection
Always take time to research provenance, materials, and signs of age. If you're unsure, sites like Antique Jewellery University3 offer detailed comparisons between real vintage and reproductions.
6. Buy from a Trusted Source
Whether you’re shopping online or in-person, it helps to buy from someone who knows vintage jewellery. At Ps Its Vintage, I specialise in Preloved, Vintage & Antique pieces and I always provide clear photographs, metal stamps and accurate descriptions.
🡒 Explore real vintage and antique jewellery
FAQ: Real vs Reproduction Jewellery
How old does jewellery have to be to be called vintage?
Typically, 20 years or older. Antique generally refers to pieces over 100 years old.
Are vintage-style rings real vintage?
Not necessarily. “Vintage-style” refers to modern reproductions. Always ask for age or hallmark confirmation.
Is all antique jewellery valuable?
Not always — condition, craftsmanship and rarity all affect value. Wearable quality is just as important as age.
You Might Also Like:
- The Difference Between Antique, Vintage & Secondhand Jewellery
- Why Buying Secondhand Jewellery Is the Most Sustainable Choice
Final Thought
Learning to recognise genuine vintage jewellery isn’t just about spotting age, it’s about appreciating the story behind each piece. With time and experience, you’ll start to notice the clues that give vintage jewellery its charm, character and authenticity.
